Happy Thanksgiving!
I have reflected more and more of late on the distinction between the artisan and the artist. In most great media companies, the executive team and the talent who create content execute against a strategy that the leadership team has defined. We often discuss vision and its ability to define our enterprise. Everyone wants to be associated with a winning team that has a shared value set.
In many respects, the artisans and the artists need to work closely together to deliver on the promise of the vision. As I start to expand my wine cellar, I have realized that I naturally gravitate toward the hard-to-find wines from small wineries. Perhaps this habit was formed early in my life, when I began to seek only the rarest of baseball cards, but I sense that it also reflects an interest in how products are produced and why some emerge as exceptional. As part of this holiday season, I am going to share with you some of my favorite California wineries, which I believe exemplify the search for excellence.
Abreu: David Abreu is often retained by others to prepare their vineyards when they want to reach for perfection. His own Cabernet Sauvignon wines, the Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos, are consistently outstanding. As part of his annual offering, he includes a virgin olive oil that is among the best that I have had anywhere. Abreu is a very small production vineyard and there is a waiting list @ www.abreuvineyards.com.
Aubert: Mark Aubert is the winemaker for Colgin (which is mentioned below), but also produces his own Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. They are outstanding efforts and definitely two of my favorites. This is also a limited producer with a waiting list @ www.aubertwines.com.
Behrens and Hitchcock-Erna Schein: The team here is one of the most adventurous in the wine industry. They produce unique blends that most winemakers would not dare to try. Amazingly, with each vintage they manage to consistently produce some wines that always place on my personal top 10 list. You can visit them @ www.ernaschein.com.
Colgin: Ann Colgin and her winemaker Mark Aubert consistently produce outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon wines and also some extraordinary blends. After waiting more than 6 years on the wait list, I missed my first chance to order because of an overzealous spam filter! They were kind enough to put be back on the list, without further delay, with the next release. www.colgincellars.com.
Copain: Twice a year I receive some of my favorite Syrahs from Wells Guthrie and his team. Mary Claire and I had the pleasure of sitting with him last year in New York at a winemakers’ dinner at Craft. He clearly loves what he does and it shows in the quality of each release. I often marvel that he does not charge twice the price! To join his mailing list go to www.copainwines.com.
Harlan: The Harlan Estate is our country’s first growth and consistently one of the top wines produced in the world. Bill Harlan and his winemaker Bob Levy are perfectionists, and I cannot think of a wine that I hold in higher regard. You can get on the wait list @ www.harlanestate.com. The wait will be at least several years, but once you are on the list you will always take your full allocation of these exceptional wines!
Martinelli: If you cannot get on the Marcassin mailing list, try the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs produced by Martinelli. Helen Turley, the proprietor of Marcassin, together with her husband, John Wetlaufer, is the winemaker for Martinelli. My personal favorite is the Pinot Noir Blue Side Ridge. www.martinelliwinery.com
Merus: If you like big, bold full-bodied red wines, Merus is for you. This winery is run from the home of Mark Herold and his wife, Erika Gottl. I actually placed my order on the phone with Erika for their first release, the Merus 1998. Mark is clearly one of the rising stars in Napa Valley and works as the wine consultant with other outstanding small wineries, including Buccella and Kobalt. www.meruswines.com
Pisoni: Gary Pisoni is legendary among his fellow winemakers, to whom he supplies grapes for their Pinot wines. He is a man of his word and does business on a handshake. He and his two sons, Mark and Jeff, consistently produce world-class Pinot Noir wines under the Pisoni Estate Label. Their new Santa Lucia line of wines is excellent, consisting of releases of Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrahs, Chardonnays as well as Pinot Noirs. www.pisonivineyards.com
Peter Michael Winery: If you prefer wines made more in a French style, then you should try the wines produced by Sir Peter Michael and his team. His l’Apres Midi Sauvignon Blanc is always exquisite and wonderful with a Saturday or Sunday brunch in the summer or with my favorite Chinese takeout from Shun Lee Palace in New York. www.petermichaelwinery.com
I have about a dozen more California wineries that I would love to share with you, but I will save them for another time. It is time to do some stacking in the new wine cellar. Ten cases arrived yesterday! As we prepare for Thanksgiving, let’s give thanks for both the artisans and the artists we have on our teams and be particularly thankful for the wonderful media business, which always keeps us engaged.
Happy Thanksgiving!